Introduction To Western Culture -- A History Of Suits
Suit
History
Western-style clothes, originated in Europe in the seventeenth Century, have now become the daily clothing of men on various occasions.
The reason why suits are everlasting is not only the effect of dressing, but also the generosity, conciseness, conciseness, sophistication and sophistication, and the age of the wearer is large, which is suitable for the three generation.
Another important reason is that it has a profound cultural connotation, and if we want to know about the western style culture, we can not help reliving the history of Western-style clothes.
The ancestor of suits: in 1690, J Teker
In the latter half of the seventeenth Century, in the Louis Xiv era, the long coat and knee coat "Chester Cole" and its short "Best" and tight and half pants "Ke Yu Luo" were on the stage of history, forming the modern three piece suit and its many wearing habits.
Chester Cole's front door pocket is generally not buckled. It should be buckled for only a few grains under the waist line. This is the modern single breasted suit. Generally, it is not rude to wear buttons.
The ancestor of tie: 1705, crabat
From 1670 to 1675, the Croatia light cavalry served as a guard of Louis Xiv in Paris. They were called "crabat near guards". A linen cloth around their neck caused people to imitate and become an indispensable ornament for men's necklines. This is the first ancestor of the modern belt, "crabat".
At that time, how to fasten this ribbon was one of the criteria for evaluating noble men's elegance. Therefore, many aristocrats employed the attendants engaged in this work.
trousers
It was the product of the French Revolution: in 1829, Pang Talong
In 1789, the revolutionaries of the French Revolution wore pant Talon as a revolution for the aristocratic tight pants, "kurat". At first, Pang Talong's trousers only went to calf, and then gradually grew longer. He reached his feet in 1793.
By the first half of nineteenth Century, trouser legs were tight and sometimes relaxed, coexisting with traditional trousers.
By 1850s, men's trousers will be modern.
Modern suit born in the Lounge: lounge jacket, 1853
The British upper class in Vitoria has many etiquette, especially in the social activities at night. Men must wear tail coats and behave in elegant manners.
After dinner, men can take a nap in the lounge near the restaurant. Only here can they smoke, drink brandy, make jokes or lie down on the sofa, when the tight fitting tuxedo seems to be out of date.
Thus, a loose tailless jacket was used as a clothing for the lounge to go on the stage of history. This is "La Ki jacket", which was born around 1848.
For a considerable period of time, this jacket can not be refined. It is limited to rest or outing, walking and other leisure wear.
In the latter half of the nineteenth Century, this jacket rose to an important part of men's clothing. At that time, students from University of Oxford and University of Cambridge wore Oxford jackets and Cambridge coats.
China's first suit made in China
The first Chinese suit made in China was born at the end of the Qing Dynasty. It was made by Xu Xilin, a famous democratic revolutionist of Hong Bang tailor. In 1903, Xu Xilin met with Ningbo tailor Wang Ming Mo, who was studying Japanese suit technology in Osaka, Japan. In the following year, Xu Xilin returned home and made a custom suit in Wang Rongtai's suit shop opened by Wang Ruimo in Shanghai. Wang spent three days and three nights, sewing all the first Chinese made Western-style clothes by hand. At that time, his craft might not exceed the level of manufacture in western countries, but it had fully displayed the superb craft of "red gang sewing" and became the forerunner of Chinese suits in the world's national forests.
40s "uniform": 1940,
Shoulder spanning suit
During the two World War, people worshipped the mighty military demeanor. Both men's clothing and women's wear were popular in military uniform.
Since 1940, men's wear has been popular Bold look. The so-called "Bold" is bold. It is characterized by bold bold exaggeration and emphasis on the broad and strong shoulders of men. The collar, the barbel and the tie are also widened. The arc of the front swing is also hard.
The trousers are loose and baggy, and the crotch is long.
The British idyllic fashion: 1982,
Arcadian
The 80s is an age of retro. With the revival of the world economy, the traditional western style dress culture has once again been valued.
At the end of the 70s, the inverted trapezoid suit returned to the traditional British style. But unlike in the past, people sought comfort in this traditional form, and the chest relaxed more, and the head became bigger and the buckle dropped.
The free combination of single coat and color trousers is very popular.
In a steady traditional fashion, people pursue an unfettered leisure atmosphere in order to find the traditional beauty in the relaxed and comfortable leisure suit.
Against this background, the "Pastoral" style made of tweed in England is very fashionable, and leisure suits are flourishing since then.
The most orthodox suit style is the same coat and trousers and vest.
Fabric
It is made of color and made up of three pieces of suit, tie and vest. But the British style vest is not very popular in China, but few people are wearing it now.
Especially in Shanghai, it is not very cold in winter, so people wear less. Actually, I really appreciate the three piece suit, especially when I see Pierce Brosnan in the 80 day around the world.
So let's take the three piece as an example.
The three piece suit, including vest, should be made up of 14 pockets.
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